Guiuan: Almost famous

By Patrick S. LarragaContributorInquirer
Posted date: June 24, 2007

MANILA, Philippines - The quiet town of Guiuan, in the province of Eastern Samar sits on the edge of the vast Pacific. On this remote sliver of land, waves hit landfall on their long journey from thousands of miles away. And through the years, the ocean currents have brought conquistadores, warring soldiers, political refugees and even a saint.
For a town so obscure, Guiuan has had a surprisingly colorful history.
The island of Homonhon, about an hour away by banca from the town, is where Ferdinand Magellan first landed on Philippine soil more than four centuries ago in the first recorded trans-Pacific voyage. Magellan and his scurvy-stricken men were said to have been welcomed to Homonhon by a gold-bedecked datu called Garas-garas.

So impressed were they with the hospitality (as well as the gold on the person of the host datu) that he named the place Nueva Providencia, proceeding to claim Homonhon and the rest of the islands for the Spanish crown.The freshwater springs from where Magellan and his men drank are still there, but these days the island has a new tenant. A controversial mining company that calls itself Heritage has pulled up stakes and has made Homonhon its base.


Fortified town
Further into the Spanish occupation, Guiuan is said to have developed into the third largest fortified town in the Philippines, after Manila and Zamboanga, in the 1600s. The fortifications may have been built to support the town's role as an emergency stop for ships in their journey across the Pacific from Manila to Acapulco during the years of the Galleon trade.

A considerable Chinese community, lured by the prospect of commerce, established residence in the town as early as the 1700s.

From this period of relative prosperity came one of the most beautiful churches in the Visayas. Built by the Jesuits in the 18th century, the church, dedicated to the Purisima Concepcion, boasts the solid and stern demeanor of fortress churches in the coastal towns of the Visayas.
The austere beauty of the facade, however, belies the effusiveness of the art inside. In its side altars and baptistery, the Guiuan Church offers unique shell ornamentation found nowhere else in the country. The National Commission for Culture and the Arts, in a book to document the art form, counted 106 species of shells as having been embedded in an "admixture" of lime and cement to frame and adorn niches and walls within the structure.

Declared a national cultural treasure by the National Museum, the Guiuan Church is refreshing for having retained much of its original structure and decor, resisting what one writer has called "the over-beautification" of old structures, in the pursuit of which concrete porticos are grafted onto coral-stone façades and tiles are replaced with crazy-cut marble.

Still, the Guiuan Church has not escaped the depredations of the trade in antiques; one of the church's beautifully carved side doors was said to have been sold surreptitiously in the 1980s. Despite the loss, the church's main doors still stand magnificently where they have stood for decades, together with an impassive St. Peter holding the keys to heaven.


Smaller scale
In Barangay Sulangan, the chapel of San Antonio de Padua receives a regular flow of pilgrims who come to light a votive candle and pray for divine intercession. The chapel mirrors the shell art of Guiuan Church, albeit in a much smaller scale.

Outside the chapel, from their makeshift pawid shacks, women sell shells as souvenirs to pilgrims. The seas off Sulangan are said to be a fertile source of shells, among them the precious golden cowrie. At the time of our visit, however, no rare golden cowrie was on display, as this shell has earned endangered status due to overharvesting.

"Kinokompresor," a woman vendor said, explaining the method of gathering such shells.

During World War II, transients of a more belligerent bent also made Guiuan their temporary home. In Barangay Dumpao, a concrete marker off a white-sand beach commemorates the struggles of men from three nations who "fought a war" in Guiuan.

In Barangay Ngolos, the incongruous 3-km asphalt runway built by the US Navy is still there, but since the Americans are long gone, the runway now serves the more practical purpose of drying bed for corn and other grains. In the same barangay, Base 3149 served as a military base for the Americans during World War II and was the supposed base of the Enola Gay, the B-52 bomber that dropped the first atomic bomb in August 1945 on Hiroshima.


Russian refugees
The Russians, too, came to Guiuan. Tubabao Island, one of the islands within the jurisdiction of Guiuan, was used by the International Refugee Organization in 1949 to provide a temporary home for some 5,000 refugees, survivors of the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 and the Russian Civil War of 1922. The Russians, too, built their structures, houses and even a church, before eventually moving on to more permanent stations in the United States and Australia.

Among the Russian refugees was the Orthodox Saint John of Shanghai and San Francisco, who was said to have prayed for good weather, thus driving away potentially damaging typhoons.

It is said that as soon as he left, the camp was totally destroyed by a typhoon. Today, some Guianons are said to have Russian blood running through their veins. But years of regular typhoons appear to have wiped out the material traces of the saint and his flock.

During the wet season, when wind and rain lash across the islands, Guiuan comes into prominence as the point where such weather disturbances hit landfall. Indeed, Pag-asa maintains a radar station in Barangay Sapao, one of less than 10 such stations all over the country, putting Guiuan in the league of such places as Aparri and Baler.
In the dry summer months, the Pag-asa radar station, perched on a hill planted to calamansi trees, affords expansive views of the Pacific Ocean, the Leyte Gulf and the ugly brown scab of Manicani island, like neighboring Homonhon, a place scarred by mining.

For tourists unmindful of its rich history, Guiuan has kilometers of deserted shoreline and long sand tracks that lead from beach to beach to yet another beach. One imagines spending lazy days on a bike just exploring the sleepy, scenic coastline.

From the somnolence that it has fallen into, there are signs that Guiuan's fortunes may change again soon. Calicaon, an island connected to the Samar mainland by a causeway, now hosts a resort fancy enough to sport the distinctive slope of the Minangkabau houses of Sumatra. A sign just off the dusty road that traverses the island bears witness to the ongoing construction of a yoga sanctuary.

Soon, tourists and other transients may once again descend upon Guiuan, some to leave their mark and commemorate their passing and some to journey on with nary a trace.

Guiuan is three hours by van from the new Abucay station in Tacloban.

Pre Hispanic Tacloban

Pre-Spanish Tacloban

DATELINE: 1411: The empire of Sri Vijaya of Malacca (or Melaka) Malaysian archipelago was the largest kingdom in the pacific. Some say the Visayas region of the Philippines were once part of this empire hence the name Visaya derived from Vijaya?


DATELINE: 1509: Portuguese fleet (5 ships) led by Capitan Diego Lopez de Sequera landed in Melaka from India to acquire a southern route to China. The fleet was attacked by the stronger fleet of Majarajah Mahmud of the Sultanate of Melaka. Only a handful of Portuguese escaped, among them was the famous (or infamous?) Fernao de Magallanes (Ferdinand Magellan).


DATELINE: 1510: The Majarajah ordered his messengers to call all the subjects of his kingdom, the most powerful and bravest rajahs, sultans and datus. From Melaka to Siam, to Majapahit (Indonesia), Guam, the Philippines and the Amis of Taiwan who were relatives of the Ifugao tribe.


DATELINE: 1511: A Portuguese fleet of 19 ships came back to avenge and free the Portuguese prisoners from the last battle. After 5 days of bombing and the fiercest battle any European and Asian ever fought, the Portuguese were exhausted. Mercenaries from Jahore and China offered their services and the tallest Chinese junk ships to the Portuguese and attack the sultan's fortresses while the Portuguese defended them with bombardments. The sultan finally fled and the kingdom of Melaka was captured.


DATELINE: 1515: The Europeans established a trading route in Southeast Asia among the Siamese, Cambodians, Indonesians, Malaysians, Chinese and the islands of the Philippines. Some datus and sultans of the early Philippines were veterans of Melaka on 1511 and are aware of the existence and treachery of the Portuguese colonizers. The Rajah Humabon of Sugbo (Cebu) was the son of Shri Bantug Lamay who was the son of Shri Bataugong of the same kingdom of Sri Vijaya.


DATELINE: 1521: Capitane Fernao de Magallanes (Ferdinand Magellan) was seeking another way to gain access to the Orient from the sea. He sailed with 5 Spanish ships and a crew of 260; Spaniards, Portuguese, Italians and some Indios of the Malaccas (Malaysian peninsula). Magellan first landed in Guam And met Magalahi (chief) Kepuha cousin of Magalahi Hurao (Perhaps the same Datu Hurao of Tacloban) he was well received there, he then moved on and sighted land off Homonhon in Samar. On Sunday march 1521 he met Rajah Kolambu and his wife Ratu Triana in Limasawa with their daughter Dayam Maanyag and performed the first mass on Philippine soil. Rajah Guban of the kingdom of Takarunga (Tacloban) became concerned of this blood compact and friendship for he too fought the battle of Melaka in 1511 and vowed never to trust the Portuguese. Rajah Guban instructed young Rajah Petik to follow the fleet closely and report back to him.

Magellan's fleet landed in Sugbo (Cebu) and made friends with Rajah Humabon and his wife Ratu Humanay. Señore Pigafetta entered in his log all these events. The Rajah confided with Magellan that a Datu in Mactan island have been harassing their shores and ask Magellan to prove his alliance by attacking the island. While Magellan was in Cebu, Rajah Guban also sent young Datu Bancao to Datu Lapu-Lapu in Bagasumbol (now named Naval, Leyte) to prepare because the Portuguese were en-route to Sugbo to his enemy's abode. This infuriated Lapu-Lapu. He organized his men in Biliran and sailed for Mactan an island, part of his kaharian (abode) which was being disputed by Rajah Humabon as his own.

The battle of Mactan ensued, claiming the life of Magellan and vanquishing the Spaniards from the Philippines after Humabon himself turned against them for their failure. Of the 250 that left Spain, only 8 returned.

Som Cebuanons may dispute that Lapu-Lapu was Waray, but paintings of the Mactan battle reports Lapu-Lapu bearing the distinctively Waray traditional tattoing all over his body, and that his son was named Dagami, and became a Datu of Bohol under Sultan Sikatuna. Dagami died when his family were massacred by Legaspi in Naval, Leyte.


DATELINE: 1540: Majarajah Mahmud secured the aid of Majarajah Hayam Wuruk of the Majapahit Empire (Indonesia) who sent Lakandula (Admiral) Gajahmada with an armada of Dutch (The Dutch Established the East Indies Company in Indonesia) warships. The Portuguese were defeated. But in a short time the Portuguese sent their own armada and destroyed the Dutch and Majapahit fleet and proceeded to pursue the Majarajah Mahmud to Limasawa. The island kingdom of Rajah Kolambu was unprepared and was wiped out and burned to the ground.


DATELINE: 1542: The fourth Spanish expedition headed by Ruy Lopez de Villalobos landed in Leyte and named the place Las Islas de Filipinas. He then sailed to Limasawa re-tracing the Magellan route but found the island sparsely populated and just the burnt remnants of the Rajah's palace and evidence of Portuguese attack.


DATELINE: 1565: Spanish King Philip II appointed Miguel Lopez de Legaspi to govern the Philippine Islands and its shipping lines. Legaspi not forgetting what Lapu-Lapu did to Magellan, raided Bohol Island in search for Lapu-Lapu's son Datu Dagami to avenge the deaths of the Magellan crew.

This sent the Datu and his people fleeing to Leyte and settling in Biliran, Lapu-Lapu's abode. Legaspi made friends with Sultan Sikatuna of Bohol.


DATELINE: 1600: The last warring kingdoms of Datu Huraw (Kanhuraw) and Datu Kabatuk (Kankabatok) in Takarunga ended with the inter-mediation of the Spaniards.


DATELINE: 1600-1896: Tacloban was under full Spanish control with a few revolts by Sultan Bancao which was stopped only after the Alcalde-Mayor of Cebu sent 40 ships. This is also the period when the island, then called Ilya-Iti was changed into Leyte. Cultures and civilizations were transformed to suit the Spaniards.

Source;
http://members.tripod.com/Taclobanon/Spanishamerican.htm

The History of Tacloban

Tacloban was known as Kankabatok, a name alluded to the first inhabitants of the place – Kabatok. They established their dwelling in the vicinity of the present day Sto. Niño church. Others who came later were Gumoda, Haraging and Huraw who erected their own settlements in nearby sites. Huraw’s domain is the hill where the city hall now sits. As a whole the combined settlements acquired the name Kankabatok, meaning Kabatok’s property.

By the end of the 16th century, Kankabatok was under the political administration of Palo and part of the parish of Basey, Samar. In 1770, the Augustinian Mission discovered the place, they were superceded by the Franciscans in 1813. During this period, Kankabatok was changed to Tacloban. The change of the name came about in this manner: Kankabatok was a favorite haunt of fishermen. They would use a bamboo contraption called "Taklub" to catch crabs, shrimps or fish. When asked where they were going, the fishermen would answer, "(to) Tarakluban," which meant the place where they used the devise to catch these marine resources. Eventually, the name Tarakluban or Tacloban took prominence.

It is not definitely known when Tacloban became a municipality because records supporting this fact were destroyed during a typhoon. It is commonly believed that Tacloban was officially proclaimed a municipality in 1770. In 1768, Leyte and Samar were separated into two provinces, each constituting as a politico-military province. Due to its strategic location, Tacloban became a vital trading point between the two provinces.

The capital of Leyte was transferred from one town to another with Tacloban as the last on February 26, 1830. The decision to make Tacloban the capital was based on the following reasons: 1) Ideal location of the port and 2) Well-sheltered and adequate facilities. On June 12, 1952, Tacloban was proclaimed a chartered city by virtue of Republic Act No. 760.Tacloban is a "waray" speaking city. The dialect is officially called "Leyte-Samarnon." A decade before the end of the Spanish sovereignty, the place was dominantly a typical colonial community. Most of its residents were either pure Iberian families or the new generations of Spanish-Filipino blood. Today’s population consists of a healthy mix of Spanish and Chinese mestizos, foreign expatriates and the native Leyteños.

The arrival of Colonel Murray in 1901 made him the first military governor of Leyte. His first official act was the opening of Tacloban port to world commerce. Before World War II, Tacloban was the commercial, education, social and cultural center of the Province of Leyte. Copra and abaca were exported in large quantities. The leading institutions were: The Leyte Normal School, Leyte High School, Leyte Trade School, Holy Infant Academy and the Tacloban Catholic Institute.

On May 25, 1942, The Japanese Forces landed in Tacloban, they fortified the city, improved its airfield, a since San Pedro Bay was ideal for larger vessels, the Japanese Imperial Naval Forces made Tacloban a port of call and entry. The Japanese started the three years occupation of Leyte. That event was considered the darkest in the history of Tacloban and the entire nation, because men and women and even the ages were tortured. During this time, many guerilla groups sprouted in Leyte the most notable was the group of Colonel Ruperto Kangleon.

Leyte was the first destination by returning Allied forces. The troops landed in the Tacloban and Palo Beaches (White Beach and Red Beach, respectively) and in the neighboring town of Dulag (Blue Beach) on October 20, 1944. Three days later on the 23rd, at a ceremony infront of the Capitol Building in Tacloban, Leyte, the Commonwealth Governments of the Philippines was restored in Tacloban City.

Today, Tacloban is the largest city and regional center of the Eastern Visayas region. It is also the capital city of Leyte province. It is the center of commerce, tourism, education, culture, and government in the region. Tacloban is located on Cancabato Bay, in the San Juanico Strait which divides the islands of Leyte and Samar.

According to the 2000 census, it has a population of 178,639 people in 34,758 households. Tacloban City is accessible in many ways. By air Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific Air has 3 daily flights each between Manila and Tacloban City; travel time is 1 hour and 10 minutes. They also have a CEbu-Tacloban-Cebu flights 3 times a week. Air Philippines also has four flights per week between Cebu and Tacloban City.By sea, Sulpicio Lines takes approximately 36 hours to reach Tacloban, the ship departs from Manila three times a week. The days of departure are fixed a week before.

Tacloban has an excellent harbor with facilities for handling large ships and overseas trade. The colorful market at the western end of the wharf is full of life. It is culturally and linguistically diverse as it is a center for the region. The main language in and around Tacloban is Waray-Waray. But the languages used as a medium of instruction in schools, communications in big business and institutions, and correspondence with government offices are the national language of Tagalog, and English the international language of the Philippines. Cebuano is spoken in the northwest and southern parts of Leyte.And it is the 1st class City in the Province of Leyte.and the city is actually developing its Power Industry,Cleanliness,rising economy,and etc... And Tacloban City has the highiest income in the Region 8 and it is also the most Industrialized city in region 8.The City is actually improving a lot.And has a strongest Industry in the Region among other neighboring cities.

from the
City Mayors Office
Tacloban City